We love Albania

A walk across the border, a lift with some workmen and we were in Albania. All our preconceptions were wrong. Since Hoxha's government fell Albania has had the pyramid selling disaster that saw most Albanian's lose all their savings, riots which included looting most of the army's weapons and a increase in blood feuds after the elders allowed people to use contract killers instead of having to do the revenge killing themselves.

What we found was people who are delighted to have visitors (and their cash), miles of unpopulated and unspoilt beaches, stunning mountains and a country that is changing fast.

We spent our first night in Gjirokastra, a stunning Ottoman town under a great brooding castle. If it was
anywhere else in Europe it would have been full of tour coaches and groups with badges following a guide with a flag. Here, there was just us, a Scottish couple who are touring Europe on motor bikes and men playing backgammon on pavement tables

Travel was easy, just stand by the road and flag every vehicle that passes. Eventually you will get a lift in a bus, furgon (minivan), taxi or even private car. Once a suntanned wiry little Albanian in a beaten up car stopped and said 'would you like a lift' in a perfect, plummy English accent - apparently he had read Economics at Kings College Cambridge.

In places Albania looks like a massive building site.  There has been some sort of land distribution but to try and ensure ownership people build a two story concrete frame. They cant afford to complete it so they live in a shack on the first floor while they wait for money or a developer.

In addition to being the only place on the planet that Bush can get a friendly welcome Tirana is a fascinating mix of 3rd and yuppy worlds. Blloku used to be reserved for the Communist hierarchy but is now full of expensive, trendy bars and restaurants and the roads chocked with Mercs and Porches.

Of all the places we went to in Europe this is the one we will come back to.