Back in Tirana

There is something very exciting about this capital and the whole country. We have travelled across it South to North and East to West. People are better off than they have ever been, not difficult given its history, and there is a great feeling of expectancy.

The people are very friendly and justifiably proud. Typical is a young guy we met on his way to Tirana to start an electronic engineering degree. When I asked him where he would like to work he said 'Albania of course, I love my country'
Mushroom bunkers where built all over the country

One of their biggest problems is pollution. Rubbish is dumped in piles everywhere, waterways are filthy. The river though the centre of the capital is an open sewer. In the middle of the country there is a massive Russian owned steel works that sends a yellow cloud over the city and through the valley. Even travelling through made our eyes sting


Albanian free expression
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Difficult things that turn out easy

Getting into Albania from Macedonia looks complicated and we couldn't get much information.

At the border we help an old Albanian carry his market produce on the long walk between the two countries (although we did think this might be a scam to get his drugs through customs)

He is known by the border guards and some guys with cars. Consequently we get through customs easily, share a car and are dropped outside a really nice hotel in Pogradec




Hard Albanian bartering using hand signals -

To taxi driver 'how much'
Taxi driver '10 euro'
'5?'
Taxi driver 'OK'

To hotel receptionist 'how much for a double room'
Hotel receptionist '35 euros'
'how about 30'
Hotel receptionist 'OK'

Bus driver, having agreed 750 Leke
'should be 600'
Bus Driver 'OK'

Pogradec is on the Albanian side of Lake Ohrid. The lake on the Macedonian side is crystal clear and full of fish. Off Pogradec it is filthy and looks and smells full of sewage - doesn't stop the local kids swimming in it though


There is building everywhere in Podgradic, including a sewage works. The streets are being pedestrianised with block paving so it will one day look just the same as everywhere else in Europe. Three massive modern hotels have been built and several apartment blocks.

The only problem is we seem to be the only visitors and there is no infrastructure. Not even a restaurant. Just guys BBQing outside bars.

Around 8pm the locals come from nowhere and the streets are packed. At 10 its deserted again

Carpet cleaning



Waiting for the furgon to fill up before we begin the 3 hour drive to Tirana

Lake Ohrid is home to many unique and endangered fish. Catching trout is illegal on the Macedonian side but fishing goes on and is widly availiable everywhere. These guys caught an eel. killed it and threw it back - European eels are endangered


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We love Albania

A walk across the border, a lift with some workmen and we were in Albania. All our preconceptions were wrong. Since Hoxha's government fell Albania has had the pyramid selling disaster that saw most Albanian's lose all their savings, riots which included looting most of the army's weapons and a increase in blood feuds after the elders allowed people to use contract killers instead of having to do the revenge killing themselves.

What we found was people who are delighted to have visitors (and their cash), miles of unpopulated and unspoilt beaches, stunning mountains and a country that is changing fast.

We spent our first night in Gjirokastra, a stunning Ottoman town under a great brooding castle. If it was
anywhere else in Europe it would have been full of tour coaches and groups with badges following a guide with a flag. Here, there was just us, a Scottish couple who are touring Europe on motor bikes and men playing backgammon on pavement tables

Travel was easy, just stand by the road and flag every vehicle that passes. Eventually you will get a lift in a bus, furgon (minivan), taxi or even private car. Once a suntanned wiry little Albanian in a beaten up car stopped and said 'would you like a lift' in a perfect, plummy English accent - apparently he had read Economics at Kings College Cambridge.

In places Albania looks like a massive building site.  There has been some sort of land distribution but to try and ensure ownership people build a two story concrete frame. They cant afford to complete it so they live in a shack on the first floor while they wait for money or a developer.

In addition to being the only place on the planet that Bush can get a friendly welcome Tirana is a fascinating mix of 3rd and yuppy worlds. Blloku used to be reserved for the Communist hierarchy but is now full of expensive, trendy bars and restaurants and the roads chocked with Mercs and Porches.

Of all the places we went to in Europe this is the one we will come back to.