Getting into Albania from Macedonia looks complicated and we couldn't get much information.
At the border we help an old Albanian carry his market produce on the long walk between the two countries (although we did think this might be a scam to get his drugs through customs)
He is known by the border guards and some guys with cars. Consequently we get through customs easily, share a car and are dropped outside a really nice hotel in Pogradec
Hard Albanian bartering using hand signals -
To taxi driver 'how much'
Taxi driver '10 euro'
'5?'
Taxi driver 'OK'
To hotel receptionist 'how much for a double room'
Hotel receptionist '35 euros'
'how about 30'
Hotel receptionist 'OK'
Bus driver, having agreed 750 Leke
'should be 600'
Bus Driver 'OK'
Pogradec is on the Albanian side of Lake Ohrid. The lake on the Macedonian side is crystal clear and full of fish. Off Pogradec it is filthy and looks and smells full of sewage - doesn't stop the local kids swimming in it though
There is building everywhere in Podgradic, including a sewage works. The streets are being pedestrianised with block paving so it will one day look just the same as everywhere else in Europe. Three massive modern hotels have been built and several apartment blocks.
The only problem is we seem to be the only visitors and there is no infrastructure. Not even a restaurant. Just guys BBQing outside bars.
Around 8pm the locals come from nowhere and the streets are packed. At 10 its deserted again
Carpet cleaning
Waiting for the furgon to fill up before we begin the 3 hour drive to Tirana
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