Leave every stone unturned

Last night we went clubbing. Marilyn woke me at about 1am and said we better go home. She was still dancing. That was after doing the 4 day Inka trail and getting up at 4am.


When we were researching the trail a number of people had written that it was one of the best things they have done in their lifes. We agree. Machu Picchu is magical. It is massive site, beautifuly built out of carved stone blocks. So much care had gone into its contruction that it was obviously very important but no one really knows its purpose or why it was abandoned. You can sit in the a temple loooking up at the 4 stangly shaped mountains that surround the site and down into deep valleys. One minute everything is totally clear. The next cloud sweeps into the valleys creating white seas and eventually billowing up until it envelopes you and the whole of MP. 10 minutes later its all clear again. We spent the whole day there and didnt want to move. Today we both feel emotional whenever we think about it and wish we were back.

Go soon because its slipping down the mountain and in future you may only able to see it by flying over the site

The trek is very hard. Climbing up 1800m to 4200m. The climb and altidude are killing but worst of all is the 3 hours decents down Inka stairs. While we are crawling along, gasping for breath our porters would literaly run past us with all the gear on their backs including full size gas bottles. When you get to the next camp your tents are erected ready for you. A kitchen is on the go next to the dining tent and within a few minutes they are serving up a really good three course dinner.

If you need a crap on the trail you have to try and dig a shallow hole, shit, cover it with grass and then put a stone on it. Dont pick up stones without taking great care

When you leave MP you get a bus down the mountain to the nearest town. A local kid dressed up as an Inka races the bus to each corner and shouts goodbye. Then at the bottom he gets on the bus and collects tips. It takes ordinary people an hour and half to do the same distance. Its a fitting end to a magical trip.



Marilyn and Jude in their ´I survived the Inka Trail´ tee shirts.


Next stop Bolivia

Boddingtons explodes at 3300M

We managed to get a place on the Machu Picchu Inka trail, its normally sold out months in advance, but had to wait in Cusco for 6 days. Not much of a problem because its a great city with loads to do. Most importantly it has two English and two Irish pubs. It is so nice to drink some decent beer and to sit in a proper pub after 2 months away. The draft beer takes ages to pour and settle at this altitude and a can of Boddingtons just explodes and you have to have two glasses to try and catch the froth as it flies everywhere.

We went white water rafting. Grade 3, don't know if that is impressive or not. The river is fed by melting snow from the mountains that surround Cusco. After we had been through the bigger rapids we had the option of jumping in and letting the current carry us down - we had helmets, wet suits and life jackets. Only myself and another guy did it. I was floating on my back looking back to the boat when I saw Marilyn jump in - this is the woman who would not let go of my hand when we went snorkeling. Because she had left it a bit late they shouted to her to swim away from the rocks. This she did quite calmly until she got safely into mid-stream. The boats picked us up at the next calm water. Marilyn said she jumped in because she thought everyone else was going to but she had really enjoyed it. The next day we did a 8 mile hike, climbing up 500m to some Inka monuments

After they had defeated the Inkas the Spaniards used Inka craftsmen to help build their churches and cathedrals. To keep the Inkas on side they let them incorporate bits from their own beliefs. So in Cusco cathedral we have the last supper with guinea pig as the main course, a pregnant Mary holding Jesus, a Mary with a snake across her chest and a black Jesus on the cross. The latter is the richest idol in South America. He is meant to protect against earthquakes so gets lots of offerings. He has 4 solid gold crowns and 10 solid gold ´skirts´. These are changed on a regular basis so he is always looking his best.

The Inka sites in the Sacred Valley are pretty impressive, especially the ones showing how they used technology. One site consists of a set of massive amphitheatres. Each level has its own micro climate and the Inkas used them to test plants in different conditions. The Inkas also harvested salt from a tiny stream on a massive scale. This factility is still in use, unchanged, today.

As I write this there is horribly loud music and speeches coming from the Plaza. Different groups of supporters are marching all over Cusco and there are loads of riot police on the streets. Its the regional elections on Sunday but all looks good natured. Our biggest fear is that we are going to hit another achohol ban

Can´t breath again

Now we are in the Andes again we are getting Mate de Cocoa. A herbal tea made out of cocoa leaves that is meant to help with altitude problems. We have also been shown how to chew it by wrapping it in a bit of lime rock. Its horrible like this and makes your mouth numb. Apparently if you chewed 5Kg of leaves you might get a mild buzz

Went to Canon del Colca a beautiful area full of canyons and the Cruz del Condor - A viewpoint where you can sit and watch condors soar below you, magic. This is such a beautiful area, dotted with lovely villages, that I wish we had spent longer than 3 days.

Wherever you go in Peru you stumble upon festivals. Some might just be a few school children dressed up and stopping the traffic. Others are massive affairs. Puno has a 5 day festival celebrating the rising of the Inca god out of the Lake Titicaca. Sunday consisted of 12 hours of processions representing various gods . All accompanied by loud unmusical brass music (with pan pipes of course). The highlight was the sacrificing of an alpaca and offering its heart to the Inca gods. Nice to see the Catholics haven't got it all their own way.

We were on a trek (traveler for country walk) and came across a walled cemetery filled with people. It was the Day of the Dead. Whole extended families come to have share a picnic with a dead loved one. They put food and drink on the grave so they can all share. Musicians are hired to play music and sing songs with the dead. It all involves a lot of beer and spirit drinking. Great fun way to remember your relatives. All the graves had crosses on them but the Andean people pick and mix religion as they feel fit
















Stayed with a family on an island on Lake Titicaca. No motorised transport, electricity or plumbing. The family cooked all our meals in a tiny thatched hut on dung fires. Their children took us to the top of a mountain to see the view and Inca remains. On the way back we found a store that sold rum and acted as the local bar. We took the chidlren in with us for an Inka Cola. Climbing back down to the house was fun in the dark but they took complete control holding our hands and guiding our steps. They where only 8 and 9

Englishman with another new hat on floating Island in lake Titicacca

PS Isnt the news from USA great. I know in the big picture it doesnt make much difference but I feel it is a little bit of justice to Bush and his cronie

One moment I was happy running round my wheel..........

Marilyn about to devour a sweet little guinea pig.  She has also eaten Alpacca. Not the one in the picture but I bet it was one of its babies.
















When we started this trip we had little interest in the pre-Inca civalisations but we are begining to realise what fantatic cultures they were. We took a flight over the Nasca lines. They cover over 180 Square miles and include animals, geometric shapes and straight lines. They where created over a period of 700 years, starting 3000 years ago. They can only be seen from the air and although there are theories no-one really knows what they were for.

The Nasca people used to create mummies and bury them in shallow graves. Most of these have been robbed and you can see human bones and cloth scattered over a huge area. However. some have been saved and the indian in the picture is 1000 years old. There is virtually no rain on this plane
BUSES
Having done over 120 hours on South American buses we feel we are now in a position to pontificate on the service
1. There are two types of bus service. Luxury express with names like Cruz del Sur and Ormeno Royal Class. These buses have reclining seats, drinks and food service, toilets and tread on the tyres - other buses dont
2. Luxury buses hardly ever leave at a time you want
3. Timetables for all buses are for decorative purposes only. Buses often leave an hour late and arrive two hours late. No-one explains why and no-one makes a fuss
4. By law all buses must show violent films. A minimum of 100 bloody, gruesome deaths is considered a minimum.
Non-luxury buses
5. Your bags are tagged and you are given a corresponding ticket. However, this is just to give the driver something to do. Anyone can take any bags they want. So every time the bus stops everyone gathers round the windows to make sure their bags are not getting nicked. If there is any suspision everyone dives off to protect their bags
6. Pickpockets and other toe-rags love buses. There are loads of scams includuing sending children under the seats to get into your rucksack on the floor by your feet
7. Buses only stop to let people on and off. If you are desparate for a wee you have to jump off and go by the side of the road. Marilyn´s record is 8 hours without a pee
8. The floors sometimes get wet but I am sure it is only condensation
9. You get the authentic smells of Peru by taking the bus
10. You can buy just anything from cola to full meals on the buses. Sellers ride on the bus for a few miles and then get off and wait for the next bus going in the opposite direction.
When we have a long trip in front of us we tend to get a bit nervous especially if travelling a night. However, (touch wood) we have had always arrived in one piece. The buses are fantastic value for money costing about 1$ an hour
SOME OTHER STUFF
1. Marilyn has asked me to point out that she went down every sand dune perfectly. On the other hand I wasnt positioned on mine properly and it started to buck eventually hitting me on the nose and sending me sprawling into the sand. By the way the sand dunes are massive., including the biggest in the world at 2078M, Ben Nevis by comparison is 1344m
2. Even engineers and other educated people in Peru cant get jobs so they become taxi drivers. In major towns 14 out of every 15 vehicles is a taxi
3. We love live music but every band in peru reminds us of Ipswich high street. We hear that bloody ´´Id rather be a sparrow than a snail´´ song at least 30 times a day. marilyns daughter, Lucy, has suggested that if we could kill the pan pipe leader all the rest might fade away
4. Peru only has squeek cheese that is impossible to eat because of the noise it makes in your mouth
We are now carrying on further down the Southern peruvian desart and then going back up into the Andes to Arequipa

Lima and an Oasis

This is a sight you dont often see. Marilyn about to sand board down a massive sand dune. When you got to the bottom the buggy picked you up and took you up to the next one. Felt a bit like Wallis and Grommit on the moon
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We loved Lima despite what everyone had told us. We where only going to spend one day but ended up spending 4 .

Some thoughts on Peru.

1. It has casinos designed for me and marilyn. Great gambling and little men who give M another free G&T before she has finshed the last one

2. Peru has had some terrible terrorism in the past. The Shining Path killed 60000 people. So it is not surprising that security is high. In the bus terminal you have to give your passport when buying a ticket and you go through a metal detecor and then a security guard waves a wand over you. All very impressive. Why then does the bus stop 100yds outside the terminal and let hoards of people on who have massive amounts of stuff bought at the market and dont have tickets. Oh yes they never check women either

3. Why do 10 post card stamps for the UK cost exactly the same as a room with en suite and 100 channel cable TV in a modern hotel in Lima?

4. Lots and lots of poverty but some of the most luxurious buses. We travelled super VIP. Not just vip but super vip. We had seats that turned into proper beds, stewardess service, drinks, food etc. But it did cost 6 times more that the normal fare

5. There are Catholic churches everywhere. Filled with peasants giving as much as they can. Why then do Nuns travel Super VIP?

6. Why does no one in a Catholic picture or statue ever look happy ?

They had a bad  day!

The view from our Lima bedroom showing the security fence and the raised sentry box

So did he!

Vultures and sand

One of the poor sods who were buried with the lord at a massive site at Sipan
Chan Chan city to 100,000 people

I bought a panama hat in Ecuador (they have always been made in Ecuador but got the popilar name when they where made for the workers on the Panama Canal). I think I look cool but Marilyn just laughs everytime I put it on




Carried on down the Andes into Puru and then turned left towards the coast. The difference was total from snow capped volcanoes and lush valleys to desert. Sometimes there was nothing but sand in all directions.

The N Peruvian towns have a neat way of getting rid of their rubbish - just dump it alongside the road outside of town. This way visitors can get a really good feel for the town´s cuisine, main industies and domestic animals long before they actually arrive. They even get the chance to observe the local vultures

The bigger towns a realy lively and the people very friendly. The preÍnca ruins are amazing - massive pryamids and whole towns made of mud bricks. They survived because they were buried by the desert sand.

From Truijllo we are doing the 8 hour bus ride into Lima

Valley of longevity

In the sothern part of Ecuador is a small paridise. Villcabamba is a very special valley surrounded by hills that give it a perfect climate all year round.

We had
- our own beautiful cabin with onsuite and beautifil views.
- superb food, everything made on the premisies including the bread
- humming birds around us at breakfast
- swimming pool created out of a mountain stream
- great bar with wicked cocktails
- free montain bikes with a two mile down hill ride to town and a truck taxi to take you back up

4 days of bliss for 25 pounds a day all in, including booze for both of us

Back to reality tomorrow. We have a 12 hour bus ride into Peru!!

PS we took another 8 hours of Spanish. Thought it nessary after I told a taxi driver that his offer of $4 was not acceptable and that I was going to pay $5.
Its called the valley of longlevity because so many of the inhabitants live and carry on working into their 100s. Scientists think it is mixture of environment, diet and excerise - Didn´t see many of them in the bar though

Bloody Election

Wish I had the camera moment - Marilyn´s face when the waiter told her that the sale of all alcohol is banned in Ecuador for the 3 days running up to the election

We were staying in Cuenca. A lovely, laid back old town, that has a reputation for being lively on Friday and Saturday nights - except when the election is on!

We had got so used to the noise and razmataz of the election that it seemed really strange when it suddenely stopped on Friday. Instead, 100s of soldiers turned up in Cuenca, ready for the election. All armed of course. In Ecuador if you wear a uniform you get a gun. Most decent sized shops have a pimply teenager on guard outside with a massive F-off pump action gun.

We where traveling on election day and every village had a carnival atmosphere with all sorts of food and sales stalls set up outside the election booths.

Highest mountain in the world (?), H poirot II and other stories

Started working our way south. Took what is supposedly one of the world´s great train journeys, dug out of the Andes. Most of the time we could see our own tracks as they zig zagged up mountains. The train derailled twice, the engineers fixed it by putting rocks under the wheels and driving the train back onto the tracks. Great fun but its tiring sitting on a roof for 8 hours!! My big disappointment is that it is usually a steam train but they only had a diesel working














We took a trip up Chimoborazo, the highest mountain in the world if measured from the centre of the Earth (its because of the bulge on the equator) . We were driven to the first refuge and then climbed upto the second refuge at 5000m. It is the highest we have ever been and the effect of the altitude was incredible. Marilyn didn.t make it all the way and I had to leave her sitting on a rock with the radio. She subsequenlty rcovered and nearly made it to the top but ran out of time. After this we cycled down 30 miles on mountain tracks
They are electing a new president in Ecuador. Every wall has election slogans on it, even in the indiginous community villages in the jungle. In the towns there are parades with stilt walkers, bands and banners everywhere. Most of the candidates seem to canvass by giving out free sweets. They don´t have parties but each candidate has a number which is on every bit of publicity. Dont know how many candidates there are but we have seen up to number 66 so far

Ecuadorian Hercule Poirot - Marilyn handed our washing in at the hostal last night. When we got it back her very special, much loved fleece was missing. The girl on the desk was as upset as Marilyn but couldnt find it. We gave her the number of our new hostal and she called to say she might have found and could we go back. Her boyfriend had realised who the culprit was and suggested that she look in the night watchman´s room and it was there. She was very scared because of his reaction if he found out she had been in his room. After a lot of negotiation the manager promised that he would say it was him who went in. Marilyn is happy but we would like to know the end of the story and hope the girl will be ok

Ughh Stuff

1. I went into the toilet in an airport and saw a guy wiping the inside of the loos with a cloth. How very clean and thorough I thought until he walked over to the sinks and wiped the taps with the same cloth !!

2. The resturants have a dish of chilli and herb sauce on the tables. I had added it to my soup and eaten it when I saw a fly get trapped in the dish. I took it out with my spoon and realised that all the bits of herb where in fact other dead flies

3. One of our long distance buses had a loo on board. Great unless you are in mid flow when the driver makes an emergency stop

Darwin´s Orange Heron and Hercule Poirot

Orange heron about to strike at one of the 27 White Tip Sharks in this trench












lonesome george - the last of his species. He is 90 and knackered. He has two attractive sub speacies femails in his pen but he is not intereted. They have even tried masturbation but couldnt get enough

Blue footed Booby about to land in Porta Ayora


Our cabin´s at the top



What happens if a tourist touches a baby sea lion - the mum rejects it







The Galapogas exceeds its reputation as a magical place but one under servere pressure. If you ever fancied visiting come soon before we destroy it. Despite great efforts to irradicate interlopers such as ferral dogs and goats, alien creatures are still arriving with vistiors, international fishing fleets and imports for the local people. The latest is a fly that lays its grubs in Finches´ nests and eats the chicks. However, the worst threat is global warming and the increased frequency and severity of El Nino phenominum. It brings warm water from the Pacific and depletes the marine life. This has a devastating effect on birds, iquanas and sea lions. 8 years ago 1000´s of sea lions died. There is a new El Nino building up now, it meant we had brilliant weather but everyone is hoping that it wont be a big one!!

We took a 8 day cruise so we could visit the outlying islands and then spend three days island hopping by ourselves. We saw everything we had hoped - Albatross mating, eggs and chicks, all the various Boobies, giant tortoises. Swam with sharks, turtles and sting rays. Took a horse ride to the top of an active volcano in the morning and then went to a trench that had 27 sleeping white tip sharks in the afternoon. Brilliant!

There was good bit of cabin swapping when we first got on the boat because there where some non-gay same sex couples with double beds. Marilyn and myself ended up in the best cabin at the top of the boat, with our own veranda and fabulous views. They even made a cake to celebrate our wedding anniversary and more importantly gave everyone a free cocktail

There was a big commotion one morning. A couple had had 150$ stolen from their cabin. We were stopped by the Ecuadorian navy and Captain Poirot boarded. He actually called all the passengers and crew into the library and we waited for his demuno of the culprit. Instead he threatened to take us all to HQ for interrigation and the trip would have been cancelled. Sensibly the couple said they didnt want this to happen and the boat owners offered to reimburse them at the end of the trip. So we where allowed to go on our way - Of course when we got to the port at the end of the trip there was no sign of boat´s owners

To top it all our guide was fantastic, totally knowledgable, enthustatic with a greta sense of humour. We promised to try and boost traffic on her web site. Its www. galapagos-ec.com.