Boddingtons explodes at 3300M

We managed to get a place on the Machu Picchu Inka trail, its normally sold out months in advance, but had to wait in Cusco for 6 days. Not much of a problem because its a great city with loads to do. Most importantly it has two English and two Irish pubs. It is so nice to drink some decent beer and to sit in a proper pub after 2 months away. The draft beer takes ages to pour and settle at this altitude and a can of Boddingtons just explodes and you have to have two glasses to try and catch the froth as it flies everywhere.

We went white water rafting. Grade 3, don't know if that is impressive or not. The river is fed by melting snow from the mountains that surround Cusco. After we had been through the bigger rapids we had the option of jumping in and letting the current carry us down - we had helmets, wet suits and life jackets. Only myself and another guy did it. I was floating on my back looking back to the boat when I saw Marilyn jump in - this is the woman who would not let go of my hand when we went snorkeling. Because she had left it a bit late they shouted to her to swim away from the rocks. This she did quite calmly until she got safely into mid-stream. The boats picked us up at the next calm water. Marilyn said she jumped in because she thought everyone else was going to but she had really enjoyed it. The next day we did a 8 mile hike, climbing up 500m to some Inka monuments

After they had defeated the Inkas the Spaniards used Inka craftsmen to help build their churches and cathedrals. To keep the Inkas on side they let them incorporate bits from their own beliefs. So in Cusco cathedral we have the last supper with guinea pig as the main course, a pregnant Mary holding Jesus, a Mary with a snake across her chest and a black Jesus on the cross. The latter is the richest idol in South America. He is meant to protect against earthquakes so gets lots of offerings. He has 4 solid gold crowns and 10 solid gold ´skirts´. These are changed on a regular basis so he is always looking his best.

The Inka sites in the Sacred Valley are pretty impressive, especially the ones showing how they used technology. One site consists of a set of massive amphitheatres. Each level has its own micro climate and the Inkas used them to test plants in different conditions. The Inkas also harvested salt from a tiny stream on a massive scale. This factility is still in use, unchanged, today.

As I write this there is horribly loud music and speeches coming from the Plaza. Different groups of supporters are marching all over Cusco and there are loads of riot police on the streets. Its the regional elections on Sunday but all looks good natured. Our biggest fear is that we are going to hit another achohol ban