End of the world and the stories of two girls

Tony Blair being interviewed by the police got about the same coverage here as confirmation that the world as we know it will end in the next couple of generations!!

This trip has bought home just what a marvelous, interconnected and fragile world this is (a few years ago the valley in the picture was filled by a massive glacier) . Everywhere we have been is experiencing unusual weather patterns and we have seen the damage being done by man on both the big and small scale. Even relatively benign tourism harms what we have come to see, whether it is the introduction of alien species or the ever widening of paths on popular treks.

We have also seen the remains of vast civilisations that must have thought that nothing could hurt their world. The Inkas can´t have known that those first Spanish boats were going to lead to the decimation of their whole culture and population in less than 100 years. And I bet the tribes on Easter Island thought that they had so much wood that it would last for ever. Within 100 years the last of them, including the king, were carted off on a couple of boats as slaves. A complex culture lost for ever, the only thing left was the Moais.

I fear we are no different and that we will keep bickering over religion, trade (and cash for honours) and ignore the very real danger we all face.
Defuncta Correa

In the middle of a desert a cluster of stalls, restaurants and even a hotel has sprung up. All because of a girl who probably never existed.

During the 1800 civil wars Deolinda followed her sickly concript husband´s battalion on foot carrying food, water and her baby son. When her meagre supplies ran out she died in the deserts of San Juan. Some time later passing mule traders found her son was still nursing at the dead womans breast. This was just the first of a series of miracles attributed to Deolinda and the creation of the shrine of Defuncta (literally defuct) Correa on the hill where her body was susposedly found

Devoties leave gifts in exchange for her supenatural favours. The hill is now covered with eloborate models of homes, bits of cars, and pictures of happy families. In the 17 shrines built to house particlar favours there are models of lorries, real bits of factory equipment, hair pieces, umbilical cords and wedding dresses. Even gold discs from successful performers and complete cars including a 1920s Ford and a 1930s Mercedies Benz.

When we where there 100s of peeople where paying trubute, kneeling before a model of Deolinda and leaving yet more gifts ( the minimum seems to be a bottle of water and some food). It´s a remarkable place, with a very weird atmosphere, made even more impressive because belief in Deolinda is activily discouraged by the Catholic Church and the State. Still it is one of the most important beliefs in Argentina and roadside shrines to Deolinda can be seen all over the country.

Juanita

500 years ago a girl child was selected, by the Inkas, because of her perfection - intelligent with a beautiful blemish free body. She was trained for years for the great honour that was going to be bestowed on her - to be sacrified to the mountain god at the top of one of the biggest monutains in South America. She was only 13 when she was taken to the moutain by the high priests. Close to the summit 4 younger children where sacrifieced and left in shallow graves. Juanita was taken right to the top. It is diffcult to image what it was like climbing at 6000m in the freezing cold and oxygen starved air knowing what was going to happen at the top. She was dressed in the finest cerimonial robes but allowed to carry a doll , some personal jewellery and her bag that at some stage she had mended with neat little stiches. This beautiful girl was given a drug and some beer then killed with a single blow to the head. Her body quickly covered in snow and froze.

In the 199os a nearby volcano erupted and melted the ice and her body and goods where recovered all in perfect condition. Juanita is now in a musuem in Ariquipa. She is kept frozen in a case and looks as if she is just sleeping. Her skin, hair and clothes are the same as the day she died. You can see just how beautful, young and innocent she was. Seeing Juanita and her personal things was one of the most moving things we have seen on this trip and we are not alone. We keep meeting people who seem to have to talk about seeing her.